Updated classic recipes liven up summer meals
By Veronica Hinke Contributor June 23, 2011 8:58AM
John des Rosiers, owner and chef at inovasi in Lake Bluff, sears Hawaiian reef fish to top his Kyoto potato salad . | Michael Schmidt~Sun-Times Media
Wasabi Potato Salad
(Adapted from inovasi in Lake Bluff)
Vinaigrette
(dressing for potatoes)
1 cup good quality soy
2 tablespoons ginger, finely chopped
¼ cup roasted sesame oil
½ cup rice wine vinegar
1/8 cup mirin
1 pound potatoes (preferably Adirondack Reds), blanched whole, then quartered
1 small piece fresh wasabi root, grated (add to taste)
2 ounces shiso leaves (preferably red), or basil leaves can be substituted
4 (4-ounce) pieces sustainably caught fish (hamachi, halibut, parrot fish all work very well) grilled with olive oil and black pepper
Combine vinaigrette ingredients and set at room temperature for two days. Mix warm potatoes with vinaigrette and shiso leaves.
Sprinkle finely grated wasabi root on top just before eating.
Grill seafood using a very hot grill, seasoned with a little pepper and olive oil. Place the fish on top of the potato salad and grate just a little more wasabi root on top of fish.
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Updated: July 8, 2011 12:09PM
Baseball, hot dogs, apple pie and — meatloaf? You might not think of meatloaf, that comfort food classic, as typical summertime fare. But Chris Dugenske, executive chef at Renaissance Chicago North Shore in Northbrook is bringing meatloaf into picnic season, and we’re not just talking about cold meatloaf sandwiches. Dugenske wraps meatloaf in bacon before baking it. Then, he slices off a few pieces to slap on the grill over medium heat for a few minutes. His inventive approach is just one of many ways chefs are modernizing — and enhancing the flavor of — classic family recipes.
“Bacon gives meatloaf extra flavor, and the grill gives it that little bit of char taste,” Dugenske said.
An ingredient found in most meatloaf recipes, one that is no stranger to the picnic table, ketchup, adds a special texture to meatloaf when it is grilled.
“Grilling caramelizes ketchup,” Dugneske said.
His version of the classic meal is as versatile as it is flavorful.
“When you want to grill the meatloaf, you just slice off a piece and put it on the grill,” he said. “You can make it for one person or feed a whole family.”
Dugenske lines a loaf pan with strips of apple wood-smoked bacon, and flips the bacon ends over the top of the meatloaf, covering it like a blanket.
He adds a spiced-up summertime flair to another food that is typically considered comfort food: risotto. He incorporates white truffle oil and fresh asparagus into his latest variation of risotto. The dish is served with a side of white wine cilantro pesto made with Pinot Grigio, cilantro and chipotle. Talk about putting your summer party dress on.
“While many of the ingredients are classic Italian, we’ve incorporated some south-of-the-border components to spice things up,” Dugenske said. “A contemporary twist has been added to many traditional Italian and American favorites on the menu.”
At inovasi in Lake Bluff, chef/proprietor John des Rosiers spices up his modern take on what is undeniably one of the most classic of all summer foods, potato salad. His Japanese-influenced recipe transforms the picnic mainstay.
Des Rosiers uses common Asian ingredients like ginger and sesame oil, but also less common components like mirin. Mirin is rice wine vinegar that is similar to sake, but contains only about 14 percent alcohol; sake typically contains about 20 percent alcohol. The recipe also calls for shiso leaves. Shiso is related to the basil family, reflected by its somewhat basily taste. Like cilantro, the leaves, which are jagged around the edges, taste slightly citrusy. The plant grows red or green; des Rosiers prefers the red leaf variety.
Des Rosiers, who is known for showcasing local produce and food products, accents the potato salad with small batch soy sauce made in Kentucky and finely grated fresh wasabi root grown in Michigan.
“The wasabi adds another flavor layer,” des Rosiers said. “It’s light, airy and elegant.”
He uses Adirondack Reds, dark gold-colored peanut-style potatoes grown at Chef’s Garden Inc., a farm in Huron, Ohio.
“They (Chef’s Garden) do some really intense stuff,” des Rosiers said.
The locavore chef modernizes another all-American classic, popcorn, with popcorn shoots that are also grown at Chef’s Garden. He dresses the shoots in melted butter, black pepper and a sprinkling of finely grated pecorino cheese.
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